Wednesday June 8, 2011
I have left Kathmandu, Nepal for the muggier tropics of Thailand and am anxious to see what lies in store. The departure from the Himalayan region was an interesting affair that contained multiple pat-downs, frustrating bag searches and inefficient bus transfers. The first I have come to understand is a direct expression of the lack of trust or abilities of those conducting the pat-down. These occurred first at the front door, twice at different security checks and once more outside the airplane before boarding. Nowhere has there been an opportunity to smuggle weapons but perhaps it is not my actions between the entry door of the airport and that of the plane that is worrisome, but rather that of the first two men performing the patting. No one really trusts that it has been done right. As for my carry-on bag, I was in a state of surprise when my drumsticks and bouncy ball were given a thorough examination and required the consultation of a supervisor to determine if they proved a malicious threat. And lastly, the need to board a bus, drive 50 feet and then disembark is of utter fascination to me. While humorous in nature it proved only irritating and has done little except to provide me a transition to my thoughts on Nepal.
While there is no direct connection between the bus and the country itself It does seem a suitable example to opine about this country. I draw no direct references except to point out the lack of thought given to the event. Here is a country (Nepal) that has one of the absolute best natural tourist attractions. Really, if you have the time and energy to trek any part of the world come to Nepal. Unparalleled in many aspects what Nepal has to offer is simply a goldmine. But they take such limited action to foster the growth that is sitting under their noses. As if conceived in retrospect Nepal’s tourism industry hangs loosely on the mountains themselves with little infrastructure supporting it. Kathmandu is a veritable dump and outside of the adventurous backpacker their holds little interest throughout the city. The only thoughts on my mind and those that I trekked with were that we were in a wilderness like no other and that if we had to spend any time in the rest of Nepal we would rather jump into boiling tar pits. In Thamel, the backpacker district of Kathmandu, an egregious tax of 10% and another of 13% are slapped onto bills without a second thought. These don’t legally exist and yet they are implemented regardless, while the justification for them continues to escape me. Nothing turns off a visitor more than be taxed twice when neither exists for the greater populous but are only haphazardly thrust upon visitors. Nepal will continue to swim in its iniquities until it settles its government and focuses on fostering the tourism that could bring buckets of money to support it. Alas, I speak in haste and no doubt vain. I’m not the first to express disgust but I hope I am not the last.
Thursday June 9, 2011
My first couple of days in Bangkok have been as expected as I am again plucked for what I have come to understand as normal and dropped into a new world. It is hot and crowded but full of smiling people; well, more or less. Despite the warnings on my first day I was convinced to get into a Tuk Tuk, an oversized motorized tricycle of sorts, and tour part of the city. Promised a good deal and told I would see the temples I decided to board. It turned out to be rather good except for the time lost at merchants I had to stop at so that the driver would get rewarded. The temples though were quite impressive, especially since I had no idea where I was having arrived in the city less than 24 hours before. My driver’s English was impressive and his attitude always seemed upbeat. For the record though, I cannot name the places I went nor could I show you where they were should you arrive.
The architecture was new and enjoyable to view. Many temples pepper the city as the citizens are almost all Buddhist and his image or homages to him appear everywhere. The buildings themselves have many large A-shaped roofs outlined with gold colored trim and intricate carvings. I’ll admit though that it all starts to blend together and at some points I questioned if I hadn’t already been taken here. Afterall, you’re not supposed to trust any of the tuk tuk drivers.
Friday June 10, 2011
Although Bangkok is a large and expansive city there remains one section of it which is home to backpackers all over the world. To some it is the quintessential locale where the weary traveler returns or the first timer selects to see if the stories are true. This place is called Koh San Road. To its credit Koh San does not contain the seediest and dirties parts that are known to inhabit Bangkok, but there the credit ends. It is loud western tourist mayhem every night of every day as traveler, street vendor and open air bars combine to form a noxious whirlwind of drunken culture. On the plus side it is a recognizable location for any taxi driver and there are plenty of places to stay. For this reason alone many choose to stay in the neighborhood knowing that they will be catered to in most aspects and will know where to run to replenish their toilet paper or desire for all night parties. Upon arrival I selected a small and cheap guest house off a side alley from this hotbed of activity and have even moved further away to a nice spot overlooking the river. A brisk ten minute walk will have me back in Koh San’s throngs should I choose to venture there but there are plenty of food stalls and bars between us to limit my need for it.
Speaking of food it has been absolute heaven for me, making Nepal look like a grade school cafeteria in comparison to these culinary delights. Most meals are had from street vendors where meats, fruits and bubbling pots of who-knows-what are waiting to be poured over rice. I relish the fresh fruits that have been made available to me as I sample recognizable pineapple, mango and papaya. Eventually I brave lichi, durian, dragonfruit and others; all of them leave me smiling and wanting more. There is no limit to what can be skewered and then grilled: chicken, beef, pork, and a hundred different types of sausages. I have yet to eat dinner tonight and just thinking of each food oasis has my mouth watering. Many times I know not what I order but am willing to assume the risk knowing for another 50 cents I can try something else. Here the Thai cook with spice and love using pork. To me the spice only compounds the heat my body scorns as the sun beats down every day. Sweat from food mixes with the muggy weather and soon my water bottle is empty and I find myself searching for coconut ice cream.
Saturday June 11, 2011
Today was a bit of a mixed bag of emotions. Having read in our guidebook that Bangkok has some of the world’s most luxurious and enthralling movie theaters we decided to prove it right. Our meeting point was of course a very distant walk so I opted for a ferry ride down south through the canal followed by a stint on Bangkok’s Skytrain, an elevated commuter line that connects much of the city. My commute went swimmingly and having arrived early I decided to snack (yet again) on more delectables being sold around the area. New foods were found and in my glee photos were snapped to capture whatever I was consuming. Unfortunately others must have been paying more attention to me than I to my food, for in the moments from finishing one snack and walking up the stairs a man of opportunity saw fit to relieve me of my camera. Upon realizing my loss a pit formed in my stomach for I knew that it would not be simply lying about on the sidewalk, as if purposefully placed there. It hadn’t fallen out of my bag with any hope that it would be reported to lost and found. No, a thief had taken advantage of my carelessness. Likely in vain I filed a police report and made my way back to the theater. We opted (partly for irony) to view Hangover 2: Lost in Bangkok. The movie was quite bad but fun to watch the misadventures of others in the exact city we were occupying. I couldn’t help but smile at the fact that someone else was having a worse time than I here in Thailand. The event has jaded me to my locale but I am determined to keep high spirits. Despite what you’ve been told, traveling is not always fun. It can suck, it can be depressing and lonesome, and it can be hard work. Today was mostly the former but it has proved as a sufficient and costly reminder that the lone traveler faces constant risk of exposure and must always be on guard.
Sunday June 12, 2011
Today some of us arranged to meet up at the Chatachuk market located in the northern region of Bangkok. An attempt to use the bus system proved successful but the mass of people at the market rendered our meeting point hopeless. Eventually through the burning sun we found each other, only to decide to head off on our own. A brilliant plan indeed, for if you have ever tried to wander through anything similar, a swap meet, garage sale or flea market, you know that no one has the same pace or interest. So my voyage was like many others; focused on food. I never really felt satisfied with my selections and found myself chasing my snacks until a bellyache forced me to submit. Chicken soup, BBQ’d pork, a seafood and egg dumpling, coconut ice cream and some bag of fruit; not bad for a breakfast. The market itself was quite large with winding alleys of trinkets and clothes and anything else you could imagine. I netted myself a local beer screened logo tank top and quickly found myself desiring lunch. We moved to a different market and walked more isles of intriguing foods. Most of them I had never seen before. But it is not the unknown of the food that worries me, but how to get what you want. Almost entirely written in Thai and with little English spoken, pantomimes prevail and crude sign language takes over. Rubbing the thumb and pointer finger together typically yields me broken English indicating a price. That’s usually my only barrier to try anything. I opted for a salad and a sausage on a stick, thinking they both would be safe choices. Spice is so prevalent in Thailand the first words I taught myself were “mae pet,” meaning “not spicy.” To my surprise my papaya salad turns out to be traditionally the hottest dish served in Thailand and my water bottle could not keep pace with the burning in my mouth or the sweat pouring my forehead. A sampling of durian, infamously not allowed on the subway due to its smell, put out the flames and netted me another great food experience in Thailand.
Tuesday June 14, 2011
Putting my Lonely Planet Thailand purchase to good use I read about certain day trips one can take out of Bangkok and so I decided to set sail for the Northern city of Lop Buri. My method of transportation was train and I made my way to the station and began the process of purchasing my ticket. As expected the English of the man at my window was of limited supply but I resolved to succeed. After he realized where I was heading he pecked at the keyboard until a ticket price appeared on the screen. Instantly I knew that was not the train for me, surely I wouldn’t be spending that on my 3 hour journey. I told him “lower class please” and with a few more taps on the keyboard a price about ten times lower appeared. Perfect, my ticket cost me about $1 to wind northward through the rice fields and extending sprawl of Bangkok.
Lop Buri was written to be a small town with old ruins, few roads and many monkeys. I couldn’t think of a better way to spend a Tuesday afternoon. The train itself was by no means luxurious, 3rd class usually isn’t, but it was definitely tolerable. Open windows provided us with some natural air conditioning and happenchance landed me next to the only other westerner on the train and so my entertainment came free of charge.
My arrival granted me just 3 hours to explore the ancient crumbling structures of former religious sites before I would have to return to Bangkok. Surely that would be plenty of time to view a few fallen stones. I was proven right and quickly I made my way through the town to gawk at ruins while keeping an open eye for the ill reputed monkeys. As it turns out they have a favorite part of town and as if entering a new world when I crossed a street they were showing themselves in vast numbers. On the power lines, running through traffic and fighting over garbage these little creatures clearly outnumbered us humans 50 to 1. I quickly hid my food in my bag lest I be forced into a man vs. monkey battle knowing the locals would likely favor the monkeys and bid we farewell by sneaking a banana in my back pocket.
It wasn’t until I made my way back to the train platform for my departure that I understood the sly smirk I had received from the ticket vendor when I purchased my return. There at the station, much like the hordes of macaques I had just witnessed, were similar numbers of children. Everyone and his brother was obviously commuting home to some foreign village and I just happened to book the same train. Although speaking a language foreign to me, there was no mistaking what was being said as they laughed at each other’s expense and understandably behaved no different than the adolescence I had known as a child. As the train filled I found myself narrowly squeezed into a side compartment, an insignificant passenger in the throngs of students. But I have no complaints; today has been a day of simplicity and I now approach my destination happy to be in Thailand.
