Saturday September 3, 2011
Dustin and I split from the
others to make our way just slightly East to the island of Lombok. The ferry was big and slow but unremarkable
in any other way. The warmth of the Indonesian’s
appeared again as strangers chatted us up as we arrived in our port. We had purchased an inclusive tickets of
sorts that was to contain our transport on Bali to the pier and then across the
ocean and again have a ride to our destination.
In reality our “receipt” was vague at best but we had confidence a ride
would be waiting for us, surely they only need to see a couple of young white
men with backpacks to know that we are the intended passengers. Sure enough our driver found us from within
the hordes and we climbed into another van to head North. We didn’t know where we would be staying but we
had picked the town of Senggigi, more at random that anything else.
We got talked into going to a certain
guesthouse just outside the actual town and it proved to be a decent
place. The staff made up with kindness
for what they lacked in cooking skills; the place was hands down the worst food
I ate in Indonesia. Though as if they
knew I was coming one of the foyers of sorts had a drumset and a bench
press. Granted the drum set was too
broken to play a single beat and the weight set was broken and lacking any
matching weights. I gave them credit for
both if at least to raise my spirits.
They also offered to drive us to and fro the town of Senggigi in their custom
convertible (custom means the top was chopped off by what looked to be a hatchet). Of course when we insisted we would walk they
had a hard time believing us. Either that
or anyone was looking to get out working in the kitchen and I couldn’t blame
them.
The two days we had were brief
but amazing. Our first full day we
rented bikes, or an assortment of wheels and chains that would pass for bikes,
and decided to head up the coastal road.
The ride was definitely the most beautiful ass kicking I’ve had in a
long time. While the distance itself was
likely a modest 20 miles or so, the perpetual hills that we forced to embark
were odious. Sure, the downhill was
fantastic if not short lived but we both knew as we kept pushing forward that
we would be repeating the task soon as there was no loop to be had on this
trip. Our night was quiet to say the
least as we found a local food hotspot and retired shortly thereafter to our
room.
The following day was
definitely one of the top days of my whole trip. We rented scooters from our guesthouse and
set out for Kuta Beach, Lombok. (not to be confused with Kuta Beach,
Bali). It would be a long ride
considering we only had scooters and a hand drawn map but we were lured to the
destination by the way the locals spoke of the beauty of the beach. Before enjoying any of it though we first had
to make our way across an island filled with drivers and traffic that resembled
something of a NASCAR race in the middle of a parade. Had it not been for the time I had already
spent riding in vans and buses in other countries I would have been ill-prepared
to command my humble scooter. Speed is
not really the issue so much as the ownership of space and who get s what
lane. And by lane of course I am
referring to the part of the road that would be a lane if there are lines
painted anywhere. Picture if you will a
normal highway, designed for a car in each direction. In Indonesia that is a 5
lane highway and everyone can have any lane; size of car and courage/stupidity being
the prevailing factors. Alas, I am here
writing this so it couldn’t have been that bad.
It wasn’t really, it was quite enjoyable, I just don’t recommend it to
everyone.
Oh but it was worth it. Kuta Beach turned out to be the most
remarkable beach I have seen throughout my travels. Maybe it was the endless white sand or maybe
it was the fact that no was baron of any foreign soul. The area is relatively underdeveloped by even
a backpacker’s standpoint although I have my doubts that it will last this way
for much longer. It has the feeling that
it will become overrun and suffocated by tourism in within the next few years. If you get the chance then I make a strong
recommendation to include it in your next travel plans, just don’t expect any
luxury except the natural beauty that surrounds you. One of my only regrets on
my trip was not having enough time at Kuta Beach. We had to return the scooters that night and
we wanted nothing to do with driving at night on this island. By the time we finished the sun was just
setting and we had done a cool 100 miles that day.
Monday September 5rd 2011
I am back in Bali and this time
it’s just not quite the same. We are in
Kuta Beach (not to be confused with the amazing Kuta Beach of Lombok island)
and the atmosphere is different. This
place, while surely beautiful, has a certain aura about it that leaves a bad
taste in my mouth. It is likely due to
the hordes of tourists that are here with me.
Unlike the serenity that was experienced just hours earlier on the
shores of Lombok, this place is like a headache for the soul. The other travelers here are no longer the
average backpacker but typical vacationers, where their money is less sacred
than their time.
I have had to spend the majority of the week
on my own as everyone else has already moved on, either back to USA (yuck) or
to a new country. Parting ways was not
so difficult except I feel surprisingly alone in a sea of people. I feel disconnected from the tourist here and
have spent my time in public solitude.
The only real news seems to be that I have contracted a wicked sinus
infection but have found an amazing little eatery serving up the fattest tuna
steaks I’ve ever had. Other than that
it’s just been an average week on a beautiful beach. I guess it doesn’t sound too bad when I put
it that way.
My flight for Manila will leave
later this evening and I’m all packed up, including my mixed bag of emotions on
the subject. The very thought of going
back to work threatens to give me the chills; quite the feat considering where
I am these days. On the other hand I have grown tired, not of traveling but
from it. The constant movement to new
places, changing beds every other night and the barrage of new culture has made
my body weary. I relish the idea of coming
back to the same bed, free to take a hot shower
at my leisure and maybe even watch some TV from time to time. They are a list of simple pleasures but my
time away from home has led to a deeper thankfulness for such things.
